Showing posts with label Esox. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Esox. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 20, 2015

Niklaus Bauer Displays Keen Pike Perspective

   A very cool & fishy FaceBook friend & musky brother posted a link to a YouTube video on FB tonight.  I figure if Corey posts something, it's worth a look-see.  Almost thirty minutes later, I'm posting his link & another link to my blog.  Why?  The Swedish host of these episodes of Fly TV, Niklaus Bauer, is excellent.  It seems strange that I've only found Niklaus and Fly TV on YouTube  & not on a major outdoor television network.  The man is an excellent angler, personable, & shares what he knows about tackle, flies, and pike while obviously having fun.  I'd hire him for a pike (or musky!) trip in a heartbeat!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oh3VYrUBlqM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqOKoveDm04


Thursday, September 8, 2011

THE CALM BEFORE THE BITE ~ The WI-MN Diaries (Part 3, Sept 3-4, 2011)

 IN PURSUIT OF MIDWESTERN MUSKY   
   Prime Musky season is quickly approaching.  The sun is warm but the wind is crisp and delightful.  The green of the trees and weeds are just past their prime.  The grass no longer grows at a lawnmower-burn-out pace.  Fall is nearly here & two nights past, I dreamt of Musky follows. 
   In honor of Labor Day weekend, a good buddy and I worked-out our casting arms with 10wts on Wisconsin’s Flambeau and Chippewa Rivers.  On Saturday, we’d planned the Flambeau float with a mid-afternoon stoppage for meals and rest.  Then, back to Musky water before dusk, to allow our eyes & other senses to adjust to the waning light, while continuing to fly fish into the night.  However, too little discipline (or too much passion) birthed 12-hours of casting and rowing, accompanied by fatigue and empty bellies.  Soon it was 830pm, darkening, with a waning moon and only one small light to guide our casting, rowing, fly changing… potential fish landing.  Dang!  Our fun and earnest hunt for the apex predator kept us from realistically and smartly exploring these creatures’ night-time habits.  We headed back to camp after loading the pontoon on the trailer.  I truly hope for another post-afternoon opportunity.  24-hrs on the fly/night fishing for Musky is on my bucket list, for good or bad, sane or crazy reasons. 
   Did I mention my buddy landed a Musky?  It was small enough that he didn’t want a photo to commemorate his first WI Musky on the fly.  However, I noted he sat back in the pontoon with a satisfied look about himself and his primary focus then appeared to be setting me up on good Musky water.  Now that’s a mighty fine friend.  He also fished successfully with an 8wt landing Smallies.  I kept to the 10wt and ended up dry, as far as Muskies go.
   Sunday greeted us with rain and a late start.   Throughout the day, the skies would cloud over and it would rain.  Then, after an indeterminate amount of time wearing hood-covered hats, we’d look up from our fishing and note the skies were blue yet again.  Hoods on, hoods off.  We’d also broken out the waders; another sure sign fall was on the way.  All in all, however, it was a lovely day. 
   No Muskies landed on Sunday.  However, at the start of the float, in deep, fast water I had a ~40” Musky follow my fly.  Figure 8 but no take.  Yet, the line was shooting out beautifully, the fly was hitting the targets, & I had a follow.  I was stoked!  The only fish landed Sunday on the Chippewa was a Smallie on a Musky fly.  We tried a variety of flies, but the Musky, the Musky follow, and the little Smallie with a Musky appetite all came on the ‘Supercharger’.  This fly is a Jared Ehlers creation; a quick tie which presents with a large profile and excellent action in the water along with a nice ease of casting.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JN8G64gHU4c .  The photo shown is a Supercharger but with an added orange marabou collar.
   The weather patterns varied throughout the weekend so how did that really affect the fishing?  After our final day of Musky hunting, we stopped in at Wannigan’s in the town of Winter for broasted chicken.  Greg, the owner whose business is next to a popular take-out spot on the Chip, told us that the fishing seemed to have been slow this year, attributing it to the hot summer temps.  So I’ve been wondering, what has Midwestern Musky fishing really been like this year; a typical year, slower than usual, or ???  And, will this year's spring and summer weather have any effect on the upcoming Fall Bite?
   I’ve decided to take these questions to the folks who have been fishing for Musky as much as I wish I could.  I’ve e-mailed Midwestern Musky guides, and also fly shop owners who cater to those who crave the pursuit of toothy critters.  Of course, the hope is for a good response.  (UPDATE:  The Fall Preview post, including the anglers' responses, is posted on my general posting (or Home) page. It will remain there until the end of November.  After that time, I will move it to the 'Featured Article' page. -Thanks, Twitch. 9/22/11)

   As for my predictions:  I believe the Musky Bite was slow this season & that their prey did not flourish due to the same suboptimal weather conditions.  If so, the Musky were able to feed adequately, but their typical body mass for this time of year is on the low side of normal.  With that in mind, Esox will have enough stored energy to aggressively pursue their forage base and will do so.  They will instinctively understanding the need to play catch-up in order to have the stored energy reserves available to survive the winter and be ready to spawn in spring.  To get to the point, I predict the Musky will behave like dogs left alone in meat markets and the fly angler will simply need to locate those markets.

Saturday, November 27, 2010

BITE IT! Fly Anglers Answer Bite Guard Surveys

   The 2nd of two articles, BITE IT: Fly Anglers State Preferences for Fluorocarbon or Wire Bite Guards When Fishing for Esox, is complete!  Please visit the Featured Article page if you would like to read about what professional fly anglers prefer for bite guards when they fish for Esox! On this page, there are profiles of the anglers, photographs, and the anglers' answers to the surveys about fluorocarbon and wire bite guards. (The first 'Properties' article is posted below on this Home page & includes a quiz question in which the winner will receive a Twitch-tied musky fly)
   Comments about the Featured Article post may be made here and are welcome.  It was a pleasure to write the articles and a greater pleasure to post the responses from these anglers who are so obviously enthusiastic about fly fishing.

Monday, November 22, 2010

BITE IT! Properties of Fluorocarbon & Wire Bite Guard Materials for Esox

     Determining which bite guard material to use when fly fishing for pike/musky can be daunting for some, and for others, there is only one possible choice.  Many factors can play a role in this decision and a follow-up article (to be posted this week under the Featured Article tab), complete with feed-back from fly anglers well-versed in angling for Esox, will address these factors.

   However, knowing the properties possessed by the various ‘leader materials’ used to make bite guards can provide a solid foundation to help one better understand the  potential outcomes of using each material.  In other words, which material do you believe  boats more Esox, is reliable, and not a pain in the backside to use?

    To clarify, this article strictly discusses the bite guard (shock guard, bite tippet); generally a 10-16” length of the leader which attaches directly to the fly.  Fly line material, which has different construction and characteristics than leader material, is not discussed.  Furthermore, the super-lines or ‘spectra-based’ lines, while they may work in a pinch, are also not discussed in depth here.  They have some excellent properties, but they are not very cut resistant.  Therefore, scissors, sharp-toothed pike & sharp rocks can cut this material.

A Clearer Understanding of Fluorocarbon
   Prior to the advent of ‘Seaguar’ the first fluorocarbon monofilament created by the Japanese company, Kureha, & officially introduced to the United States in 1992, heavy nylon monofilament was used by some for bite guard material.  However, nylon mono is more visible in water, is prone to abrasion, has more stretch and breaks down in sunlight.  While some undoubtedly still use this material as a bite guard, others may agree that the affordable nylon mono has a better place in the leader -such as the butt section- where its purpose is well-served farther from the mouth of a toothy critter.  

   Then, fluorocarbon made its appearance and over time it has improved in quality to allow for a more fishable material.  Many of the characteristics purported by manufacturers appear to be comparisons to nylon mono, but are, nonetheless, characteristics to consider when determining a bite guard choice.

   The light refractive index is 1.3 for water, 100% fluorocarbon (in contrast to line material which may have a fluorocarbon coating) has an index of 1.42, and mono’s index is 1.52.  Hence, fluorocarbon is less visible in water.  The material is also abrasion resistant, dense, and does not absorb water.  Therefore, it is resistant to toothy attacks, rocks and other structure, it sinks uniformly, and its breaking strength does not change when wet. 

   Manufacturers also claim that the material has good knot strength, low stretch rate, is chemical and weather resistant, and is unaffected by UV light.  However, many believe that fluorocarbon is not ‘knot-forgiving’.  A knot poorly tied with fluorocarbon will have a high failure rate.  And while the initial cost of fluorocarbon may be considered by some to be off-set by its long shelf-life, this also means it does not readily break-down in the environment. What type of impact do those clipped fluoro tag ends and the broken-off bite guards have on the environment? (For that matter, what pollutants are created when any leader materials are produced?)  While improving, fluoro still carries the reputation of having more memory than nylon mono and of being ‘stiff’, affecting the action of the fly.

   In summary, fluorocarbon is abrasion-resistant, yet bite-offs can still occur and nicks can severely weaken a bite guard; it sinks readily, so a subsurface fly may be helped, but your popper may struggle to ‘pop’; it refracts light similarly to water, possibly increasing hook-ups, but your bite guard is only as clear as it is clean; it is nearly impervious to the sun’s rays, therefore having a longer shelf/water life, but environmental factors could cause others some concern.

   In addition, all nylon mono knots can be tied with fluorocarbon, plus the diameter of fluorocarbon (.026”) is smaller than mono (.030”) when comparing the same pound (50#) test.  It generally appears that the most popular pound tests in use for bite guards range from 40-80#.  As one approaches the latter range, knots become more difficult to tie and some choose to use snaps/swivels to attach their bite guard to the rest of the leader and to the fly. Of course knots are still required, but it is easier to switch out the bite guard and/or the fly without having to tie as many knots.  Some fluorocarbon is also marketed to change color when in the water and another brand is pink in color yet the manufacturer claims it is still ‘invisible’ to the fish. Expect to pay at least $23 for 25 yards of decent quality fluorocarbon, but one can spend more than $50.

No Breaks for Wire
   Unlike fluorocarbon, wire offers different materials from which to choose.  Leader material choices include stainless steel, both single-strand and multi-strand; and of the latter, there are either nylon-coated or non-coated options.  Furthermore, titanium wire is also available in single-strand and multi-strand construction.  This includes nickel-titanium (Nitinol), a type of titanium wire which is widely offered for leader material.  The alloy was developed in 1962 for hand weapons and tools, other products evolved, and in the very latter 1900's it was also developed as leader material.*  

   In general, all wire materials mentioned above are corrosion resistant, have very good strength, and are impact resistant.  Many anglers, regardless of which bite guard material they use, will agree that wire can stand up to a toothy attack better than non-wire bite guards.

   Single-strand wire has a smaller diameter than multi-strand wire of equal strength.  Pertaining to stainless steel, it has been claimed that it is easier to make a bite guard with this material than with multi-strand, yet many users of the latter would argue this.

   While both single and multi-strand wires, particularly stainless steel, can kink, single-strand will do so more readily and it is also more difficult to straighten when simply bent.  A kinked or bent wire, at the least, can affect the action of the fly, and, at most, cause a break-off.  When a kink occurs it is often best to trim off or change the bite guard.  Stainless steel multi-strand wire is more flexible than single-strand wire, potentially improving the action of the fly and allowing it to be coiled and transported more easily with less risk for damage.

   With the advent of nylon-coated multi-strand stainless steel wire, manufacturers claim that it is easier to tie a coated wire to monofilament line and it helps to prevent knot slippage.  Other features are that it offers increased abrasion resistance, increased line life, and a reduction in line visibility.  There are also a steadily growing number of colors available.  However, it is also possible for the nylon coating to become damaged, necessitating a trim or a bite guard change, and some coatings can be more reflective, increasing the visibility of the bite guard.

   Compared to stainless steel wire, manufacturers and anglers claim titanium wire has more kink resistance and abrasion resistance.  It is also flexible and has a 10-15% capacity to stretch.  The material has very little memory, generally returning to its original shape after being bent.  This durable material has a darker, non-glare finish.  However, others have expressed concern that the material can be brittle.  There are also claims that it is more challenging to tie knots with titanium wire and that the types of knots available to be tied with this material are limited.  Furthermore, it is not possible to complete a haywire twist with this wire and it may be challenging to effectively crimp the wire.  This strong material does, however, possess a smaller diameter, making it less obtrusive in the water.  
   In summary, wire is very abrasion resistant, with little chance of bite-offs.  However, kinks will severely increase the chances of a break-off.  Wire is more visible than fluorocarbon in water & some wire can be more reflective, possibly affecting the number of hook-ups.  Newer wire materials are more flexible and offer improved tie-ability, yet special skills and tools may still be needed.  The smaller diameter of wire may leave some considering: if a material possesses a smaller diameter and is very abrasion resistant, could it increase the likelihood of causing harm to the body or teeth of a toothy critter?

   In addition, only a specific number of knots can be tied with wire.  One should start by following the manufacturer’s recommendations.  The approximate inches in diameter of stainless steel wire: single-strand (.016) and multi-strand (.024), and titanium wire: single-strand (.018) and multi-strand (.021), at 50# test, for example, is smaller than nylon monofilament (.030) and fluorocarbon (.026) of the same test strength.  It generally appears that the most popular pound tests in use for wire bite guards range from 20-50# tests, partially dependant upon material used.  Knots, swivels, snaps, crimps, and a (nylon) twist melt can be used.  There are a greater number of colors now available to match the environment/water conditions.  Expect to pay $1.85-39.00 for 30 feet, dependent upon material used, and then plan for additional costs if you need wire cutting tools and wish to use snaps, etc., with your bite guards.

My Take On All This Mumbo Jumbo:       
   A greater share of the choice between materials will boil down to:
1) Reducing bite-offs or break-offs
2) Decreasing line visibility and increasing hook-ups
3) Comfort-level and skill with which the angler uses the material
4) Personality-type
5) What material is readily available in the angler’s location.

   I have friends who use either material and I’ve fly fished with guides who use either material.  At this time, I use fluorocarbon bite guards, but my mind remains open to change.  I’ve never had a bite-off or break-off, but I have not landed large quantities of Esox... yet.  I generally fish in stained waters and the success rate when fishing with others who use wire is running fairly even.  The fly has appeared to make more of a difference than the bite guard.  For me, it’s about comfort level and personality.  I love the ease of a loop-to-loop connection.  I can pre-tie all of my musky flies with bite guards, toss them in a case and switch out flies with ease.  While I’ll cast all day and into the night if the choice were all mine, I’d tend to over-fish an unsuccessful fly because I wouldn’t want to re-knot the wire bite guard, or I’d let the bite guard get too short prior to changing it.  I am selectively lazy.  On the flip side, I do occasionally imagine hooking up with that first 50-incher:  An amazing fight ensues, that is, until I get my first bite-off.  Like I said, my mind remains open to change.

Which Bite Guard Material to Choose?
   There isn’t an absolutely right or wrong answer.  It’s an individual choice.  However, I do have a few suggestions to help one on to the path of bite guard happiness. 
  
   Visit a fly fishing shop; one that caters to those who love to fish for toothy critters (& there are a lot of similarities with shops that cater to saltwater fishing, too) would be more beneficial.  You will know you’ve found one when you see tying and fishing materials geared toward Esox, and if they offer guided trips for musky and pike.  The personnel here can help one narrow down which material to use and then provide instruction in how to attach it to the fly and the rest of the leader.  Don’t forget the local fly fishing club, which could certainly be of assistance. 

   Using the internet, research specific materials and don’t forget to visit the fly fishing forums to read comments and to ask questions.  Once the material type is further narrowed, I’d recommend revisiting the computer and searching for customer reviews of specific product brands, not forgetting to differentiate between customer-use error and product faults. 

   Also, if you elect to use snaps, swivels, or crimps, buy the best quality possible, since they are more pieces of equipment added to the leader which could fail.  Furthermore, stay size-appropriate, as you would be adding more weight and visibility to the leader.  

   Practice tying bite guards before you get to the water.  If you’ve elected to use wire, visit a craft store to purchase 49 strand wire.  While you may not get the same flexibility and ease of tying that you would get from fishing-specific material (or the knowledge from fly fishing junkies at the shops), you can still purchase material for less cost to hone your knot-tying skills.  For fluoro users, buy nylon mono or 20# test of fluoro to begin tying knots. After all, this other material could be used elsewhere on the leader.  Finally, buy quality materials!  If you cut corners when it comes to bite guards, a toothy critter is more apt to do some cutting, too.  (Written November 2010)

*Links to reference materials for wire leader material:
floridasportfishing


Quiz Question:  Why is it hypothesized that pike deposit their feces outside of their forage range?
(E-mail me by 12/26/10 at stripntwitch@yahoo.com with your answer and a number you've chosen from 0 to 300. The person with the correct answer who is closest to the number I have chosen will receive one of my hand-tied musky flies.)